The Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) may seem like an odd name for one of the most militarized places on the face of the earth.  Just 30 miles north of Seoul, and 80 miles south of Pyongyang, it was the armistice line at the end of the Korean War:  its winding contours stretching across the peninsula, 155 miles from east to west, mark […]

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When you arrive in North Korea, there’s a sense of unreality about it.  I suspect even Bill Clinton, when he climbed out his private jet onto the tarmac at Pyongyang, must have wondered to himself, “Is this really happening?  Am I actually here?”  For most of us, North Korea seems to occupy the same imaginary […]

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From August 13, 2009 It’s with a heavy heart that I read a report by Time’s correspondents that Chinese authorities have nearly completed bulldozing the ancient quarter of Kashgar, an oasis on the Silk Road in the far western province of Xinjiang.  Old Kashgar and its famed Sunday market (which I’ve heard has also been shut down) […]

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From August 23, 2009 In October 2008, I traveled to North Korea.  Before our departure, our group was informed that we marked roughly the 1,000th U.S. citizen to visit North Korea since the Korean War, over 58 years ago.  In the wake of former President Clinton’s surprise visit to Pyongyang, to retrieve two imprisoned U.S. journalists, many people have […]

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